After acquiring a couple of free food grade chemical barrels, I wanted to create a rain barrel with an inverter. However, all the deviators, commercial or made were not exactly what I wanted. Today I will share the way you can make a rain barrel diverter kit. You can read our best rain barrel reviews article if you want to buy the best rain barrel for your home.
Table of Contents
- Food Chemical Grade Barrel
- Reverse PVC, 3 “x 1-1 / 2”
- 3/4 “Nut
- Lead -3/4″ Brass Nut
- Drain Valve 3/4 “
- 3″ x 4 ” X 4 “Downspout Adapter (X2)
- 3″ x 2 “PVC Ring
- 2″ Threaded PVC Male Adapter –
- 90 ” PVC Street curve 3.”
- 4 “x 4” X 3 “PVC Sanitary Tee
- PVC cement all-weather
- Marine Goop Sealant -Aluminum Gutter
- TFE Thread Paste
- Drill a hole using a spade 3/4 “a few inches from the bottom of the barrel. A bit of planning before drilling is suggested at this stage.
- The distance from the hole to the bottom of the barrel depends on the amount of free space that is needed when the barrel is finally installed. Also, take into account the position of the holes in the top of the barrel.
- The barrel that I am using has a threaded course and a threaded hole very well. The male threaded PVC adapter I used should be used on the fine threaded hole The inverter has a short distance from the downspout so make sure you consider the distance of the downhill.
- The position of the holes on the This will give you the final position of your spout The inverter can be extended away from the descent with a 3 “PVC pipe section to add a little more flexibility.
- Beak installation took a little ingenuity because I wanted to keep the integrity of the holes in the top of the barrel. So I had to go all through the 2 “holes I tied a small washer on a length of chain and inserted into the hole in the bottom of the barrel.
- I recorded a magnetic extractor to a broom handle and fished the washer out of the hole in the top of the barrel, and then fed the chain through the 3/4 “brass nut and tied it to the end of another washer larger than the locknut.
- Put putty on the barrel-side of the locknut and then feed the washer and locknut into the barrel.
- The second chain related to the washing machine in the picture is simply for control. I wanted to keep the configuration from falling or spoiling the putty pudding.
- The tool was made of a wedge-on wrench (1 1/4 “or 1 1/2”) bolted to a 3 ‘section of copper pipe scraping. Toughen the gasket for 24-48 hours before applying any voltage or pressure of the water. With the lock nut in position, maintain tension on the rope to keep it in place.
- Thread the 3/4 “nut into the drain spout and apply sealant to the barrel-side of the paste against nut and thread on the thread. Insert the free end through the threaded side of the drain nozzle.
- You must open the tap completely to do this. Align the threads and tighten by hand. To get the beak completely tight, I had to make my tool that would fit into hole 2. “The tool was made of a wedge-on key (1 1/4″ or 1 1/2 ” ) bolted on a 3 ‘section of copper pipe to scrape.
- Harden the seal for 24-48 hours before applying any water pressure or pressure duct into the drain spout and apply putty to the barrel-side of the paste against nut and thread on the thread.
- Insert the free end through the threaded side of the drain nozzle. You must open the tap completely to do this. Align the threads and tighten by hand. To get the beak completely tight, I had to make my tool that would fit into hole 2.
- The inverter is mounted as a glued section and a dry-mounted. I did this so that the intake of the inverter did not leak, but the Canon can still be easily removed from the downspout if necessary.
- To start the glued section, I applied the TFE thread paste to the threads of the 2 “PVC male adapter and inserted into the fine threaded hole on the top of the barrel, then prime and glue the small PVC pipe section of 2 “in the male adapter.
- Take the 2 “ring reduction and first and glue it into the appropriate end of the 90-degree elbow .. Prime and glue the elbow into the 3” outlet of the sanitary tee. Make sure the tee is the wrong side of the normal plumbing system.
- The curve will allow better circulation in the Canon.
- Then use the same marine grade sealant to stick the 3 “X 1-1 / 2” coupling inside the sanitary tee’s disadvantage.
- There is a small gap between these parts from where the use of PVC cement putty.
- I took a screen gutter section and it shaped funnel-shaped opening in the 1-1 / 2 “hole of the assembly.
- This is to prevent the gutters off the barrel of leaves and debris. The final step is to insert the two 3 “X 4” X 4 “downspout adapters into each end of the sanitary tee.
- To install the Canon, I used two large blocks of concrete that were taken on my basement wall. These blocks work well because they are longer than standard concrete blocks.
- Tamp and level the expanse of land and add a layer of fine gravel. Then place the concrete block and check that they are level or even tilted in the direction of the spout.
- Place the cannon on top of the blocks with the inverter attached and mark the rain descent at a point just below the depth of the adapters.
- Do not make the marking mistake on the outside edge of the adapters or you will come short. Cut the downspout with tin snips or a saw or tin.
How to install a rain barrel diverter
Post Generation Information
I have attached a timer for the Canon with a seepage hose that surrounds the porch. The pressure is not that excellent, but all of my water plants are enough. I also paint this barrel or build an enclosure because it is located on the front of the house.